Every Chinese New Year, tables across Singapore erupt in a burst of chopsticks, laughter, and shouts of “Huat ah!” as families and colleagues stand to toss a colourful plate of raw fish and shredded vegetables as high as they dare. That dish is yu sheng, and the ritual is lo hei. If you have just moved here, or grown up tossing without ever asking why, this guide explains what yu sheng is, why it matters, and the meaning behind every ingredient and phrase.
Yu sheng, sometimes written yusheng or yee sang, is a Cantonese-style raw fish salad eaten during the fifteen days of the Lunar New Year. The name is a pun: the characters can mean “raw fish”, but they sound like the words for “abundance” and “rising” or “life”. So the dish itself is a wish for a prosperous, thriving year. Lo hei, the Cantonese term for “tossing up”, is the act of mixing it all together at the table while calling out auspicious phrases. The higher you toss, the greater your luck for the year ahead.
This piece is for anyone who wants to understand the tradition rather than just follow along, whether you are hosting your first reunion dinner, joining a work lo hei, or simply curious about one of Singapore’s most-loved festive customs.
How lo hei works
Lo hei is a communal ritual, and half the joy is in doing it together. Here is how a typical toss unfolds:
- Everyone gathers round. The plate arrives with the ingredients arranged separately, often in a circle of colours, with the raw fish in the centre and small dishes of sauce, oil, and condiments on the side.
- Ingredients go on one at a time. A host or elder adds each component in turn, and with each one the table says a matching auspicious phrase (the list below). Some restaurants print the phrases on a card so no one is left guessing.
- Then everyone tosses. On the cue, all diners dig in with their chopsticks and lift the ingredients high into the air, mixing everything while shouting good wishes. The taller the toss, the better the fortune, so expect mess and expect to laugh.
- Finally, you eat. Once tossed, the salad is shared. The flavour is sweet, tangy, and crunchy all at once, a mix of citrus, plum sauce, and crushed nuts.
The ingredients and their meanings
Each item in yu sheng is chosen because its name or colour sounds like, or stands for, a blessing. As each is added, the table calls out the matching phrase. Exact wording varies by family and restaurant, but these are the common ones.
Raw fish
The centrepiece, usually thin slices of salmon in Singapore. Fish (yu) sounds like the word for abundance and surplus. Phrase: “Nian nian you yu”, meaning “abundance through the year”.
Pomelo or lime
Squeezed over the fish for brightness. It stands for good luck and steady fortune. Phrase: “Da ji da li”, meaning “good luck and smooth sailing”.
Pepper and spices
A light dusting of pepper and five-spice powder. These express the hope of attracting wealth and valuables. Phrase: “Zhao cai jin bao”, meaning “may you attract wealth and treasures”.
Oil
Oil is drizzled in a circle over everything, poured to encourage money to flow in from all directions. Phrase: “Yi ben wan li”, roughly “may profits multiply ten-thousand-fold”, or “cai yuan guang jin”, “may wealth flow in from every side”.
Carrots
Shredded orange carrot brings good luck, as the Mandarin for carrot echoes words of blessing. Phrase: “Hong yun dang tou”, meaning “good luck is coming your way”.
Green radish
Shredded green radish represents eternal youth and vitality. Phrase: “Qing chun chang zhu”, meaning “may you stay forever young”.
White radish
Shredded white radish points to prosperity in work and business. Phrase: “Feng sheng shui qi”, meaning “smooth-sailing progress and advancement”.
Peanuts
Crushed peanuts are sprinkled over the plate, a symbol of a household filled with gold and silver. Phrase: “Jin yin man wu”, meaning “may your home be filled with wealth”.
Sesame seeds
Scattered sesame seeds wish for a flourishing, booming business. Phrase: “Sheng yi xing long”, meaning “may your business prosper”.
Golden crackers
Crisp, deep-fried crackers, often pillow-shaped, are added to represent a floor covered in gold. Phrase: “Man di huang jin”, meaning “may the whole floor be filled with gold”.
Plum sauce
The sweet, thick plum sauce is poured over the top last, tying the flavours together and wishing for sweet, close relationships throughout the year. Phrase: “Tian tian mi mi”, meaning “may life be sweet”.
Once every ingredient and blessing is in, the whole table tosses together with a final chorus of “Huat ah!”, a Hokkien cheer for prosperity and good fortune.
Etiquette and good manners
- Wait for the cue. Do not start tossing until the host has added everything and given the signal. Jumping in early takes the fun out of it for everyone else.
- Toss up, not out. Lift the ingredients high, but aim your chopsticks upward rather than flinging food across the table or onto neighbours. A little mess is expected; a ruined shirt is not.
- Say the words. You do not need perfect Mandarin. Joining the phrases, or at least the “Huat ah”, is part of the spirit. Most people appreciate the effort more than the accent.
- Toss with intention. Traditionally you call out your own wishes for the year as you go. It is meant to be joyful and loud, not solemn.
- Mind dietary needs. Vegetarian and no-raw-fish versions exist, using mock fish, extra vegetables, or smoked salmon alternatives. If you are hosting, it is thoughtful to check.
Where families get their yu sheng
There is no single “right” way to source yu sheng, and most households mix and match through the season.
- Restaurants: Chinese restaurants, hotels, and zi char stalls serve elaborate plates during the festive period, often as the opening course of a reunion or company dinner. This is the fuss-free option and usually the most photogenic.
- Home DIY: Many families buy the components and assemble at home, which lets you control portions, freshness, and dietary needs, and stretch the ritual across several gatherings. Preparing it together is part of the bonding.
- Supermarkets and delis: In the weeks before Chinese New Year, supermarkets and online grocers sell ready-to-toss kits with the sauces, crackers, and shredded vegetables portioned out, plus fresh or chilled fish. These are convenient for smaller households and last-minute tosses.
FAQ
What is the difference between yu sheng and lo hei?
Yu sheng is the dish, the raw fish salad itself. Lo hei is the ritual of tossing it while calling out auspicious phrases. People often use the terms loosely to mean the same festive moment.
When do you eat yu sheng?
Traditionally during the fifteen days of Chinese New Year, and especially popular on the seventh day, known as Renri or “everybody’s birthday”. In practice, Singapore workplaces and families toss any time across the festive weeks.
Why do people toss the yu sheng so high?
The height of the toss is believed to match the height of your fortune for the coming year. It is symbolic and celebratory, so bigger tosses mean bigger hopes, and a lot more laughter.
Do I have to say the phrases in Mandarin?
No. The phrases add to the fun and meaning, but joining in however you can, even just the “Huat ah”, is warmly welcomed. Many restaurants provide a phrase card to follow.
Is there a vegetarian version?
Yes. Vegetarian yu sheng swaps the raw fish for extra vegetables, mock fish, or other plant-based ingredients, while keeping the crackers, sauces, and the toss itself. It is widely available during the season.
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